Exploring the Great South Road

A historic and meaningful journey down a road well travelled by many throughout the history of New Zealand...

 

The weather conditions that pretty much followed me consistently throughout 

 
Shooting down the Northern Motorway struggling to hold course, feeling like a captain of a old tall thip with wind buffeting me from off the beam (if we are to use nautical terms here) and rain driving in with equal force to audibly hit the windows enough to drown out the stereo for periods of time, I wondered if I had made the right choice to head out on this short little road trip to visit a few of the sights that I had been wanting to check out for a while only amplified recently by reading more about them in the Penguin History of New Zealand, which I might add is a fascinating book (read my review here) but really the fact of the matter was I had very little choice.

The purpose of this trip was 2 fold. To get some business done in what is termed ‘The City of the Future’, yes correct, ‘The Tron’ or Hamilton as most know it and also on the way there and back, go exploring, go up side roads, visit things I have driven past without a thought too many times and basically have a good solitary time on the road. I like travelling alone, independant, I can go see and do, stop and turn around and hang around when and where I like. Being well equipped and prepared, as cliche as it sounds is not a silly idea. Having basics such as a rain coat and some snacks and water goes along way to making it an enjoyable safe journey (gees I sound like a NZTA transport ad). I heavily use my iPhone maps app in conjunction with Zenbu to find all things nearest me when im on the road, plus the iPhone has some choice photography apps that can really make some of your snaps turn out like pro shots and make it easily later on to show others the true extent of the sites you may visit.

Screenshot of Zenbu when I was trying to find a park next the river.

The weather definitely was not playing ball and was looking dubious from the outset. It is a well known fact that I dislike rain, detest wind and combine the 2 along with a sub tropical air mass, read humid, creates the most unlikely outdoor weather scenario that would see me volunteer to go out in it. But what did you know, relish in it I did. One reason was because I had to go to Hamilton today and…I was quite looking forward to going for a drive in the rain through some of the most moody country side south of the Bombay’s this country has to offer, that is full of rich history and quirky randomness.

Stocked up…ready for the road

Barreling down the southern motorway now, my first stop sees me pull into the Papakura Service Centre with the big solar powered BP Service Station for some much needed road trip supplies, (A marvel and big deal at the time) and the Autobahn Cafe. I remember as a kid travelling through the UK and Europe, frequently seeing this motorway fuel/service stops and was mesmerized when New Zealand got its first proper one here at Papakura all those years ago with a cafe that was similar in culinary fare as my favorite that featured at stops in the UK…Little Chef. Autobahn Cafe’s were set up, with the first here in Papakura based on the European service centre model and have proved to be a hit, with the next at Bombay and another close to home at the Dairy Flat Service Centre. 

There usually is a nice clear view but todays was a lil different…

The Solar Energy meter outside the BP was definitely reflecting the kind of day it was with hardly any numbers coming up on its large perhaps outdated or maybe even retro LED screen on the forecourt and so it was back on the road to battle the elements again, next stop…Rangiriri Pa. Sliding over the Bombay Hill’s (named after one of the ship’s that bought early settlers to the area, not as I had thought or wished because it looked like India or Indians lived there or some fanciful rubbish like such) on normal fine days you get the magnificent view down to the Waikato with its patch work of green farmland spreading forth. Not today. Grey, mist and rain. Did add an element of mystery though I must say. Passing Pokeno, sadly sitting in an idle state to the left of the Great South Road I felt a tang of regret, how the bypass, however efficient to traffic getting from A to B faster, has killed the small town’s usual trade. I cant imagine what it would be like in winter there, even in its summer glory as a ‘must stop’ for its famous ice creams, it isn’t even busy. Makes me ponder as I travel further south past Meremere and Mercer some of those isolated side roads with houses up the back of no where…what on earth do these people do around here? Farming is a obvious choice for some but what about the rest that dont? Anyhow…

Told you it was close to the main drag!

Rangiriri Pa site is quite conveniently placed right next to the main road, and from what I can ascertain, is still on the same location generally as the original Great South Road. I have driven past the Pa site an insurmountable number of times over the years without even knowing it was there, right next to the road, just up a short walk from the carpark which I always thought was one of those dodgy pull off places that the road workers always use as a place to store tar-seal metal. How wrong I was. Literally pull of the main drag and stop. You are there. 

What I found was breathtaking. Up a short walk from the carpark, you are on the top of a little knoll of a hill and before you lies tangible evidence of the old Pa fortifications. Ditches as deep as I stand tall run in a L shape. The ground is visibly heaped in places and dug out in others over the area of a normal house section. This is the history that I love. This you can run over, touch, lie down on. Feel what it was like to be there during the wars, to see why it was so strategically important, being actually rather high and also overlooking the mighty Waikato river.

The Pa site is clear for all to see, touch, feel, and run over.

 

My new found interest in all things New Zealand history has been sparked from reading several books on the subject, one of which, The Penguin History of New Zealand I think is the most comprehensive book around to give a broad overview in all aspects of NZ history. Given my ethnic background of being from both sides of the Kiwi coin, European (Scottish) settler on my Fathers side and Maori on my mothers, the history of this land and how it came to be where it is now is and has always been fascinating to me. Michael King talked about the famous Rangiriri Pa in his book and knowing where Rangiriri was (from many unfortunate story relating to the Pub & car crashes) I knew it was not far to go to check it out and see where one of the most well known battles of the New Zealand wars took place. 

 

To think 1500 British troops stormed the Maori’s that defended this pa back on 20 Th. November 1863, both sides suffering massive casualties, all this happening, where I was now standing. These sites I think are highly beneficial for all people to learn about and visit. They are also highly sacred or tapu and therefore I think a clear open & neutral frame of mind should be in place upon entering areas of this earth where many lost their lives and blood was spilt.Rangiriri Pa to NZ history is like what 1200 year old remains of villages in the UK are to them. Anything 1800’s in NZ is ancient in our history and its given that is really is so close to the present day, its not often that many things like this are preserved and so its fortunate that the Historic Places Trust looks after such locations.

 

The effect this Pa had on me was more than I had imagined. I never thought I would be able to see such evidence of history in a Pa site in NZ so well preserved and I felt ashamed that I had driven past this sacred place so many times without a thought. Never will I do so again. Its a shame really, I bet many kiwi’s dont know its there. It does not help when its hardly got any signage and the one that it does have is half buried on the embankment away from the main road covered in overgrown grass. Apparently there was more info on the Pa in nearby Rangiriri township, next to the history pub & hotel which has been catering to passers by for 100 odd years, which was across the road from the infamous petrol station, which has now disappeared, however upon trying to look around the visitor centre it was nothing more than a glorified souvenir shop and tea rooms, trying to flog touristy rubbish without a care in the history of the area. 

Historic & notorious Rangiriri Tavern on the Great South Road

Moving on again, im back on the Waikato Expressway to Huntly. This road is great, a marked change from the meandering road next to the river that it used to be, this 2 lane expressway jettisons people into the mystical, magical realm that is Huntly or known by Maori as Rahuipokeka. The obvious dominant feature of the town, once you can get past the blaring music of Country Calendar, is the Huntly Power Station, New Zealand’s version of the famous Battersea. Just replace the Thames with the Waikato and we are half way there. The power station and its twin 150m double flue chimneys are fired by natural gas and coal, the latter being fed directly from a underground mine 2 kms away on a conveyor belt system. Completed in 1981 it was originally designed to be a base load station, meaning running full blast 100% for long periods of time producing maximun power.

Double centre lines!….Whoaaaaaaaaa!

Driving into Huntly (excuse the dismal 1997 looking website) the red tipped smoke stacks jut into the sky and are the dominate feature, that is if you can get past the weird double centre lines, the Deka sign, River Haven and the River Mill bread factory’s ghastly yellow paint job as you exit the town. Huntly was also famous for the Huntly brick, not that anyone really knows or cares now, probably many were used ‘alternatively’ for throwing through windows. Whenever I drive through Huntly I always stop at River Haven. I dont know how long Ive been doing this but it seems like its the place you gravitate to or the need to use the bathroom arises. River Haven is just that. A haven by the river where one can relieve, refresh and revitalize before continuing on their journey perhaps a little worse for wear both mentally and physically but hey, it doesnt say its 5 star attraction. A sign of the power station graces the wall of the toilets which has been there for yonks. Years ago you used to be able to go down to the rivers edge and get some pieces of pumice that would float down the river all the time, but now days there hardly seems any left.

This sign has greeted me over the last 2 decades and it never seems to a) get tagged or b) age

As you head out of Huntly proper via its main drag by pass, just past the KFC/Macas/Mobil combo, the sickly yellow buildings of the River Mill bread factory come into view. I dont like yellow as you might be able to tell and the yellow they used to cover their buildings is ghastly. Moving on…

Another reason I like driving in this still seemingly horrendous weather is that it creates an atmosphere outside that is hard to replicate on a nice day. The hills and bush are surrounded by mist, the mood is dark and melancholy and as I round the bend to see sacred Taupiri mountain, it hits you again. The stunning beauty and solace of the sacred place where many Maori are laid to rest. I always give a toot and a wave to my hero Billy T James on the hill as I pass. A nod to a true genius.

 

The blank ‘Welcome to Hamilton’ sign before you hit Te Rapa…a sign of things to come?

At this stage I had to drive straight into Hamilton central via Ngaruawahia and the formidable Horitiu, past the Te Rapa Dairy Factory and Te Rapa shops to get to my appointment in time. That is when I found that driving in the rain in the city is a drag and ducking between building awning to shelter from the precipitation is not fun. Nevertheless after the meeting was concluded I then was faced with finding somewhere I could get down to the Waikato river to wash my hands in it (Just because I could say I had done so) and also find the public loos. Note, dont drink heaps of water on the road or in the boardroom unless you know the consequences and where to relieve them. I found myself ending up at Claudelands show grounds. A place of significance the past for me, when I was being a roadie back in the days, the Claudelands event centre (immensely outdated resembling a massive wool shed) was a place where many gigs and events were stages in the tron. How things have changed! Now in their place a huge new events centre has been built and it looks fantastic. The park surrounding the events centre where the old Grandstand resides reminded me on this overcast day something out of Christchurch or the UK. Lovely manicured lawns, open space fringed with autumnal hues of all shades of orange and gold. I would have gone for a run and dance but it was raining. By the time I had rested and got some quick emails off it was time to hit the road, not before getting the obligatory river shots as promised, and make my way to Candyland…a last minute addition to my itinerary for the day.

 

The Mighty Waikato! 

Driving out of Hamilton (Or In) one is faced with Te Rapa straights. This long straight long ago narrow road now houses many of the towns new ‘BIG’ styled shopping centres and vehicle dealerships. Lots of factory sized stores and industrial buildings reside along this road. Not exactly the most welcoming sight but it serves it purpose as being the dedicated shopping centre I guess. ‘The Base’ is the latest addition to Te Awa or the big huge massive Sylvia Park like shopping centre and boasts to be NZ’s biggest when fully completed and opened.

Te Rapa Dairy Factory 

Not far out of town is probably one of most iconic dairy factory’s in NZ standing proud right beside the road. The ex New Zealand Dairy Group of Companies Te Rapa dairy factory, now Fonterra’s, is one of the world’s largest dairy factories, which is rather deceptive because on the outside it doesn’t look massive but there is a large component that is underground. Further on up the road a factory of another sort greets you, not like the dairy factory in a visually potent way but by striking one of the other senses…smell. Ahh yes you know you are near Horitiu AFFCO freezing works when the smell of seemingly rotten meat and offal whack you in the head via your car’s air con. AFFCO Horitiu is NZ’s largest beef slaughter & processing plant conveniently placed on its current site given its proximity to Auckland for trade via Great South Road, the Railways and also of course supply lines from farms over the Waikato.

The Y Trees!

Moody misty weather dominating the skyline behind Ngaruawahia with the old rubbish tip area beside the road. Spot the methane pipes…

Before you hit the town of Ngaruawahia there is a large cemetery with odd looking trees lining the road side. Obviously these trees were planted years ago and have grown up into the power-lines that run overhead but instead of taking the trees out completely, some genius has decided to (at a young age) trim the trees with no central branches so they indeed start growing out in a Y configuration, thus avoiding the overhead power-lines and thus ensuring I have something amusing to look at before I move onto the next strange feature of this town. Before you turn the BP corner the straights leading up to the township have this massive grass area between the road and the railway tracks. Why, was a question I was asked, and asked myself many times. Apparently it used to be the surrounding areas rubbish dump and when covered over produced methane gas so the pipes jutting out of the ground at intervals are gas vents. Now I know why this ‘prime’ piece of real estate was never offered for sale. Ngaruawahia is the official seat of the Kingitanga Movement with its Turagawaewae Marae sitting proudly on the banks of the river. In 1863 it was renamed ‘Newcastle’, probably because the British could not get their plum mouths around Ngaruawahia but that did not last long. A cute purple (my fav color) dairy resides on the northern side of the town and seeing a ‘Longest Drink in Town’ paint mural I could not help but stop and admire the artwork.

The Waikato with its open expansive plains is home to some awesome driving straights, a overtaker & death wish drivers dream, one of them is on the road out from Ngaruawahia. Sidled next to old army barracks (Where some of my family were stationed and I used to visit many years ago) this long straight stretch of road has seen some horrific accidents over the years. Funny there is ‘Jew Road’ that comes off the main drag. The sign for Jew Road, like that of Lovers Lane up near Te Hana north of Auckland has been raised high up the pole, no doubt to deter would be souvenir snatches. 

The turn off to Candyland (again excuse the dismal website…is there no web designers in the Waikato?) is not far off and with it the journey to the most randomly placed candy factory in rural New Zealand begins. Meandering along farm land, cowsheds dotting the landscape, you could sometimes mistake yourself for driving through, especially on the day that I had, rural England. It is with no surprise then that one might come across an old dairy factory and that you will when you sight the smallish industrial buildings off to the east on the road to Gordonton (which is also a good shortcut for circumventing the Tron, coming out at aptly named english Cambridge). What one might not expect is now that very dairy factory, instead of being demolished or left to taggers, rot & ruin (like the Kaipara Dairy Factory in Helensville…RIP) it was turned into New Zealand’s own Willy Wonka esque chocolate and candy factory some 2 decades ago. 

So excited, rock on!

Dubious jelly bean action going on ‘behind’ the rubbish bin…I mean come on, think about the kids!

Candyland…nope, no one had added it on Foursquare or Facebook Places so I quickly entered its details and ‘checked in’ with my ultimate goal of becomming mayor here one day. The pride I had was immense. The crowning glory of check ins for me had been complete. I could die on Facebook & Foursquare now a happy human being…Ok, back to the ‘real’ world now. I had been coming to Candyland for years throughout the early 90’s as my school holidays were spent playing around on the Luge in Rotorua and Candyland was my ‘treat’ stop on the way home…It sure bet Huntly. Anyhow the mural’s outside have hardly changed and still look to be in surprisingly good shape. Its been a while since I was last here and I had heard that it had met a rather dismal demise from its glory days of factory tours and producing the worlds largest lollipop for ‘Radio Lollipop’ at Starship Children’s Hospital. Still, I could not hide my excitement as I ran around taking pictures (some of rather lewd acts being depicted on the mural wall…what kinda message are we sending to the kids now days!?) and into the store, which is a shadow of its former self. Where there used to be bins and shelves FULL of fizzies, lollies, candy canes, fudge and cakes, there was only a few aisles that had stock on them. A lone Asian lady was cleaning up, as it was almost closing and I was their last (probably annoyingly) customer of the day. I perused the shop, now looking worse that it has ever been but still I found it fun and exciting, there still is more lollies on offer here than any supermarket pick & mix bin so it was well worth while. I found some goodies (and also a sneaky shelf labeled ’seconds’ where they bag up all odd ends and screw ups and sell them at steal prices), had one last whirl around the shop, tried to speak to the lone shop keeper about the old tours and if they were still going, which I was informed they are, only on Sunday’s sadly. A walk outside where I remember bus loads of kids running around, playing under the trees at the old picnic area, I could not help feel a little sad that how this once bustling enterprise is now in irons…still I hope someone can inject some new found spark into it. Until next time old friend that is my secret ultimate desire!

Cola lollipop…why of course…

Back on the road once again past misty, moody Taupiri mountain (toot to you Billy T!) I re enter Huntly for the 2nd time today, running slightly ahead of schedule (in order to avoid Auckland traffic which would be intensely worse given the conditions) I decide to head across the river and see how close I can get to Huntly Power Station. What surprises me is that there is a whole large town on the other side of the river, that was obviously built to service ‘Battersea’ as I call it, using the famous brick from the area. I manage to find the main entrance to the station which has a rather intriguing cool looking sign. Good photo opp for some Pink Floyd style ‘Animals’ cover shots. Park up and hop out to take some pics I notice the sign looks more intricate than I first thought…I venture over…blow me down.

The Huntly Power Station sign is not some corporate signage on some boring steel but rather a very intricately carved Maori motif on wood complete with paua inlays for the eyes of the carved figures that adorn this masterpiece. I could not believe it and running my hands over it, I wondered how many people took this amazing piece of work for grated everyday. It is stuff like this that I love about travelling and discovering about places. Its ALL in the detail. Chuffed with my find I jump back in the car and head to Huntly not before stopping at one of the cutest dairy’s I have seen. Some of you might know I have an affinity with NZ dairy’s and this one was a beauty that oozed 1980’s NZ all over it, complete with signage and probably owners to boot. It came up looking great in the evening light.

Pulling over to take some more snaps and a walk around the famous Tainui Bridge not far from the corner where the KFC I spoke earlier is, I started to get peckish. The heavy, and I mean heavy aroma of KFC wafting on the breeze is not to be dismissed and just on dusk, I could not think of anything better than a 3 piece quarter pack, 2 large fries, potato & gravy and a large Pepsi…NO…I must resist the urge to go through the drive through! Resist I did but one thing I could not was stopping to take a snap of the famous Huntly ‘Deka’ sign which stands proud like a obelisk to a shop that remains etched into the psyche of many kiwis. So famous it is that it spawned a retro T-Shirt uprising thanks to Mr Vintage. DEKA was a chain of merchandise stores that was NZ owned and operated and after being sold to Farmers Trading Group in the early 90’s, slowly met its demise at the hand of imported goods. But the legacy lives on in our hearts and YouTube searches with its retro ads, logo and catchy phrases and of course, the holy shrine of Deka in Huntly. All bow.

One last pit stop in Huntly was due before hitting the road proper for a push to BP Bombay for dinner. I like driving at night, something soothing about it, and I feel more alive when driving long distances in the glow of headlights and street-lamps street-lamps Driving around the sweeping corners after Mercer looking up to the winding trail of dotted lights that line the Bombay Hills, I knew Auckland was not far away. After tucking into some homemade fare, kept warm by my awesome 12V car fridge/pie warmer for my trip I took to the road again, hitting the motorways that fed into Auckland where I was hoping I could pass through with no hold ups. Wait, this is Auckland remember…of course there would be hold ups!.

By 8PM I had made it back to my folks farm north of Auckland and satisfied of my day trip and all I had seen and done. It was good to get some business done but It was really an excuse to get out on the road and start exploring this country of ours, something that I will be doing more of in my free time from now on and sharing with you all!

Upon reflection, the highlights would have to be:

* Rangiriri Pa - Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine it to be as intact as it was. To walk on history, to smell it, breath it. Incredible. Something really powerful about places where history has taken place and I felt it when I walked upon the Pa site that day. 

* The Huntly Power Station sign discovery - I would have never known a) the sign was unveiled in 1991 or b) it was actually carved from wood if I had not taken the time to drove across the river to go have a look.

* Candyland - A remnant of some good memory’s back in the day. As sad as it was to see it in a state of lingering demise, it was still good to get back there and take home some goodies.

* The cute icons of Kiwiana along the journey - The cute old school dairy’s, the takeaway shops at 5PM filling with young and old waiting to get their dinner, the smell of KFC wafting down over the Waikato river, the bad driving habits of all on the road, the DEKA monument. There are something so unique that have to be experienced to be believed.

* The drive and experience itself - The weather, the laid back journey, the mission, the ‘no plans stan’ aproach. Guided by the wind in my sails, more like whatever I felt like going to do or see at the time. The drive back along Great South Road (Southern Motorway) at dusk, motorway lamps like trees at the side of a long winding road guiding me home.

The final approach to Auckland…just over the hill…sigh

There is so many things to see and do if we only take time to stop, look and notice these unique things in NZ that we all do take for granted. Stop in the small towns, go for a walk, read the plaques on the monuments. Find out about the history of the towns you drive through or the roads you travel on. Look up things to do and see for free, not all attractions cost money. Enjoy the land around us, the people. There is so much to see and do in New Zealand. Why so many kiwis head off on the OE when really they can do an OE in NZ and still find probably more about themselves than they would overseas. 

Be intrepid, be an explorer, live the adventure!

Until next time…take care out there & rock on! ,„/

Some footnotes to my journey. All photos were taken on my iPhone 4 which I find negates the need to own a digital camera for road trips or overseas journeys. My guides for sights and history have been the awesome Mobil NZ Travel Guides (no longer in production but can be found 2nd hand) and general historic knowledge in my own mind. I will be doing some more trips North and South over the coming months so stay tuned for more kiwi adventures!