Colourful Greymouth

It’s a pretty small ‘big smoke’, but one packed with charms, and after many visits over the years we feel like we still haven’t discovered them all.

You know you’re in New Zealand when the ‘largest town on the West Coast’ still only boasts a population of 10,000 people.

It’s a pretty small ‘big smoke’, but one packed with charms, and after many visits over the years we feel like we still haven’t discovered them all.

Greymouth’s a typical Coast town, one that sprang up from the coal and latterly timber exports that passed through its port.

Often described as ‘a town with its back to the sea’, it is, as the name suggests, the river that defines this town. The Grey – also known as Mawheranui – flows 120 kilometres from Lake Christabel in the Alps, fed by numerous smaller rivers along the way.

Much of the town has its back to the river, too, which has been known to burst its banks and flood the streets.

The town is now protected from such misfortune by the ‘Great Wall of Greymouth,’ a flood barrier completed in 1990.

Running along Mawhera Quay, it provides a good platform from which to survey the town’s heritage buildings, some of which date back to the 1860s.

An enjoyable couple hours can be whiled away walking its length, along to the port in Erua Moana Lagoon, and out to the breakwaters which are popular for fishing.

As a meeting point for rail, road and sea, Greymouth gives off the buzz of a small junction town. It’s home to the West Coast terminus of the magnificent TranzAlpine train journey across the Alps from Christchurch and through the Arthur’s Pass.

There’s a mini population explosion when the train pulls in each day. It’s also the intersection for highways heading north through Westport to Karamea, south to the glaciers and inland to Reefton and the Lewis Pass.

So this is the place where the Coast’s road-tourers come to stock up on supplies.

The Greymouth CBD does its darnedest to satisfy. It’s got all vital shops and services, and multiple choices for eating and drinking.

For those keen on both local history and beer, don’t miss the Monteith’s Brewery tour, while arty types will find good browsing in the town, especially in the Left Bank, the West Coast Regional Art Gallery.

There are plenty of walks in the area. A locals’ favourite is the Point Elizabeth Walk, six kilometres north of town, which offers panoramic sea views, nikau palm groves, blowholes and the occasional seal.

The Shantytown heritage centre is a must-visit, fascinating and fun for young and old alike. Stories from the region’s rich pioneering history – imagine gold rushes and sawmilling – are evocatively retold amongst the preserved buildings and relics of a 19th century town.

Highlights include a steam train ride, gold panning, and spine-tingling museum displays (people really lived like that?). Don’t miss the lolly shop, it’s pretty sweet.

The coastal drive north of Greymouth is spectacular, but it is Punakaiki (44 km away), that will blow you away.

A true natural wonder, the legendary ‘pancake rocks’ can be viewed along a stunning coastal walkway which allows you to get right up close these curiously sculpted limestone towers. Visit at high tide, if you can, when the blowholes will be booming and amplifying the sound of the waves crashing below.

If you’ve got more time to spare, Truman’s Track (one hour return) just north of Punakaiki is well worth a look and will take you through thick coastal rainforest and along a sandy crescent beach where shallow caves have been carved by the sea.

Greymouth is great to visit, any time of year, with surprisingly mild winters compared to the rest of the South Island.

The Coast’s reputation for rain is somewhat unjustified, because there’s actually a 75% chance that the sun will shine. Sure, it does rain, but as the locals will tell you, ‘it falls ‘largely at night, and in very big drops.’

There are a variety of places to stay in Greymouth. For both location and value (and because we adore New Zealand holiday parks), our pick is the Greymouth Seaside Top 10 Holiday Park.

As accurately named as the town itself, it is indeed beside the sea, giving it an edge over other accommodation options – this is as close as you can get to the sunset.

It’s ozone fresh and quiet, save for the rhythmic rumble of the ocean and the occasional take-off and landing at the airport next door. It’ll take about half an hour to walk into town, but the closest pub is just a few minutes down the road.

The first tents were pitched here around 60 years ago, so it could be forgiven for looking a bit tired and dated. No chance, for the owners of this park have holiday parks in the blood – one having been raised in the business.

The evidence is everywhere. In the 13 years Matt and Steph have run this place, they’ve made the whole place over from scratch. 

The Seaside Top 10 is a popular touring park that works hard to keep its visitors happy. Campervanners have the choice of either grassy pitches or hard stands, and there are ample taps and picnic tables spread throughout.

Communal facilities include two kitchen and shower blocks, an exceptionally good laundry, as well as a TV/internet lounge.

Everything is ship-shape and built to last. There’s enough to entertain the kids, too, with a well-equipped games room, playground, jumping pillow and go-karts or hire, plus the beach on the other side of the flax bushes.

If you’re looking for a real roof over your head there’s a wide selection of options, ranging from standard and kitchen cabins ($55–80), through to one and two-bedroom family units ($105–145).

The studio and family units are well equipped, and with kitchens or kitchenettes, Sky TV and their own bathrooms, they make a great alternative to staying at a motel.

There’s a bed for every budget, with the bonus of being located in a pleasant, parklike environment right next to the sea.

Even on a grey day, we still think Greymouth’s a colourful and vibrant little town. It’d be a shame to just pass through.

Greymouth Seaside Top 10 Holiday Park
0800 867104, 03-768 6618

www.top10greymouth.co.nz;

www.holidayparks.co.nz