Golden Bay Holiday Park, Tukurua Beach

Brews, views and barbecues...

Takaka Hill. Two words known to strike fear in the heart of drivers, especially inexperienced truckees and those towing a caravan.

For us, quite the opposite. Steep and winding it may be, but to reach the other side is to find the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow – Golden Bay in all its glory.

As you pass the summit and head down into the Takaka Valley, you’ll surely make out the low outline of Farewell Spit, arcing around the eastern flank of the Bay.

Inland, dense bush cloaks the slopes of Kahurangi National Park which surround the lush green pastures on the flat.

It’s a magnificent view, one which for us signals the start of some extra special times – relaxing sunny days by the beach, daily swims, a walk in the hills, and a good night out at the Mussel Inn.

We’re regulars at Golden Bay Holiday Park, which is conveniently close to the Inn and more or less smack bang in the middle of the Bay.

About 15 minutes drive from artsy Takaka, it’s situated at Tukurua Beach down a leafy one-kilometre driveway amplifying that away-from-it-all vibe.

The campground itself occupies 12 acres, protected from the onshore breeze by a shelterbelt of flax, phoenix palms and rata.

The beach is a delight, with a gentle incline that’s ideal for tentative swimmers. Walkable for miles in both directions, it’s a quiet spot shared only by your fellow campers and the locals – you won’t find hordes of day-trippers here.

The campground’s more than 40 years old, which accounts for the mature grounds with hedgerows and graceful silver birch forming shady avenues for campers and campervanners.

Water restrictions have recently reduced capacity from 450 to 350, turning what was already a roomy park into one with grassy fields to spare – great for the kids to run around in while the rest of park enjoys relative calm.

Built accommodation is also available, for those without tents or a van. A two-storey block of furnished cabins offers a solid budget option, right next to the beach with peek-through views to the sea.

Next to them are a couple of rather swish two-bedroom beach houses nestled amongst the trees. Built in 2009, these have numerous mod cons and their own barbecue and balcony.

The campground itself doesn’t sport a huge range of facilities but what there is – kitchen, toilets and coin-op showers – are functional and clean.

There’s Wi-Fi acess, an internet kiosk and a weeny TV, but that’s pretty much it. But this is place where less is more, where you don’t need a raft of amenities to enjoy yourself.

There’s a ramp for the boaties and fish biting offshore, ice cream at the camp shop, and a kiddies programme during the summer holidays.

And then there’s the Mussel Inn, just down the road at Onekaka – a five-minute drive, but possible to reach by walking along the beach (as far as the corroded iron remains of Onekaka Wharf) then up the road to the highway where you take a left.

Be sure to check the tide times, though, unless you’re prepared to get your feet wet. One of New Zealand’s best pubs, this is an unashamedly rustic place with an array of house-brews (including the famous Captain Cooker manuka beer), wholesome food and regular live music.

Golden Bay Holiday Park’s central location within the Bay means it’s not far from the area’s other attractions, either.

Day trips can easily be made to the lunar landscape of the Spit and its migratory godwits, Bencarri Nature Park with its slippery eels, or the tracks and treasures of the Abel Tasman and Kahurangi national parks.

If you fancy exploring or just want to hang out by a quiet, uncrowded beach, this place may well be for you.

Golden Bay Holiday Park, Tukurua Beach

www.goldenbayholidaypark.co.nz
www.holidayparks.co.nz