Karen Walker is New Zealand’s best-known designer. Her first runway collection came in 1998 (Hong Kong Fashion Week), and was entitled ‘Daddy’s Gone Strange’. A mannish theme saw a reworking of the traditional men’s business suit and her range was picked up by Barneys in New York. The result of that purchase was that Walker’s name hit headlines when Madonna performed in a pair of her ‘killer pants’ at the 1998 MTV awards. The Karen Walker style is tailored, modern and androgynous - with an emphasis on cut. She often juxtaposes masculine and feminine; luxurious and ugly. Trademark accessories include overlong men’s ties and pearls. Marcus von Ackerman of Paris Vogue has said of her: ‘I greatly admired Karen Walker's refreshing, original collection. It managed to combine edgy, gothic, sartorial wit with pure modern elegance and, above all, it was impeccably finished. It was utterly divine.’
Zambesi
Zambesi opened its first store in 1979 and now its label features in stores in New Zealand, Australia, London and Naples. Zambesi is the inspiration of sole designer Elisabeth Findlay, whose garments are characterised by ironic combinations of different fabrics and textures, an innovative mixture of different construction techniques and high quality production. The men’s label is ZambesiMan.
Nom D
Margie Robertson is best known for her innovative knitwear. Her styling is utilitarian - mixing style with function. Garments are usually in dark colours, utilising New Zealand’s famous wool, and she experiments with textures. Her label was profiled at London Fashion Week and is on sale both nationally and internationally. Nom D is featured in the designers’ room in Liberty's of London.
World
Husband and wife team Francis Hooper and Denise L’Estrange-Corbet create colourful imaginative clothes that break boundaries. From furnishing fabrics to cowhide and woven wool, the World label pushes boundaries in womenswear. Hooper and L’Estrange-Corbet set up World in 1989 - he, the ideas man, she, with the tailoring skills and a fashion degree. Success upon success began in 1997 when World presented its worldly goods at Australian Fashion Week, coming to the attention of fashion icon Anna Piaggi and featuring on CNN’s Style programme with Elsa Klensch. In 1999 and 2000 World was voted in the top 10 shows at London Fashion Week (as part of the New Zealand Four). In 2001, World was asked to show at Paris Fashion Week, but was unable to attend because of obligations to the inaugural L'Oreal New Zealand Fashion Week.
Kate Sylvester
Auckland designer Kate Sylvester’s international success kicked off when she first appeared at Mercedes Australian Fashion Week in 1998, launching her new label. Previously, Kate Sylvester's designs had been known in New Zealand as the Sister label. Sister died, partly because of trademark problems getting the name Sister into Australia. These days Kate Sylvester’s three biggest markets for her clean, creative and contemporary lines are Australia, New York and New Zealand. She also represented New Zealand at Hong Kong Fashion Week 2000. The same year, Elsa Klensch reported on The Today Show that Kate Sylvester’s was one of the top four shows at the 2000 Australian Fashion Week, and interviewed Sylvester for CNN. The interview was broadcast to around 40 million people worldwide. Kate Sylvester is now represented in more than 30 stores in Australasia, six stores in Asia and 15 stores in the US.
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