The new generation of Whakarewarewa Guides
There is an ancient whakatauki (proverb) of New Zealand’s indigenous Māori people that metaphorically reflects on the inevitable fall of great leaders and the consequential uprising of the new generation to take their place.
‘Mate atu he tete kura, ara mai he tete kura’ literally means ‘As one frond withers, another rises to take its place’. The sentiment of this maxim is nowhere more palpable than in the steamy realm of Rotorua’s Whakarewarewa Thermal Village, whose people have hosted visitors from all over the world for the last 200 years.
The reputation the village has for gracious hospitality has been well earned over the years by the work of its internationally renowned guides, such as the late Guides Sophia Hinerangi and Rangi Dennan, and the more recently departed Guide ‘Bubbles’ Mihinui.
Although these famed guides of yesteryear are no longer alive, the welcoming spirit of the Tuhourangi - Ngāti Wahiao people thrives, as the new crop of Whakarewarewa guides continue to host tour groups through the village.
Hook and Cook
The village’s offering has recently been diversified by Boxer Smith, owner of Maui Trout Fishing Tours and great grandnephew of Guide Rangi, who combines his inherited talent for hospitality with another great passion - trout fishing on the lakes of Rotorua.
A Maui Trout Fishing Tours experience typically begins at dawn on the shores of Lake Rotorua. Boxer has fished Lake Rotorua and the region’s other lakes for 20 years and has no problems getting his 6-man capacity vessel, Te Ika ā Maui, right to where the hungriest trout are.
Boxer’s vast trout fishing experience means he can cater to clients at all levels. In a single trip, he can transform a first timer into a confident angler. For the more seasoned fisherman, Boxer can increase the challenge as required. He is also knowledgeable on local Māori history and entertains his guests between bites with the tales and legends of his tribe.
When the fishing is done for the day, Boxer takes the group to his home in the heart of the Whakarewarewa Thermal Village. Here he prepares the catch of the day for steaming in the Ngawha - a wooden box constructed on top of the boiling hot springs. This traditional method of cooking has been used by the villagers for hundreds of years and is still regarded as the preferred method of cooking.
While the fish is cooking, guests enjoy a tour around the village. Pointing out the village highlights as he goes, Boxer offers an insight into life at the village - an intimate look at a living tourist attraction, where visitors have the chance to interact with the local community as they go on with their daily lives.
Boxer can also, by arrangement, take guests to his family wharenui (carved house), erected long ago by his ancestors as a cornerstone for family members. Access to such a treasured building is rare, especially when your guide is a direct descendent of those who built the wharenui.
After the tour, lunch is served up at Boxer’s home. The trout, still hot from the steam, is laid on the table so the guests can share the fruits of their morning’s effort on the lake. Tales are traded about ‘the one that got away’ and there is usually the opportunity to catch a glimpse of the live kapa haka (traditional Māori dance party) performances held at the village.
The legacy of the great Whakarewarewa guides lives on through Maui Trout Fishing Tours, as guests are treated to a personalised cultural experience quite unlike anything else in the world. A day with Boxer Smith and his family is not just a fishing trip, nor just a cultural experience, it is a day immersed in the traditions and history of his ancestors - the famous guides of the Whakarewarewa Thermal Village.
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