Treading carefully on a national treasure
Imagine hiking for six days, never seeing another soul and not even stepping out of a national park?
If you don’t believe there’s such a place left on earth then you haven’t discovered Kahurangi National Park in the north western corner of New Zealand’s South Island. It’s a national treasure and an international phenomenon where total immersion in the unique, natural environment comes with a mental and physical health warning - beware, the experience is bound to be life changing.
With 452,000 hectares of wilderness, Kahurangi is New Zealand’s second largest national park and offers seclusion and rugged grandeur with imposing mountain ranges, rolling tussock lands and unspoiled forest valleys and coastline. The endemic flora, fauna and birdlife exclusive to this region heightens the attraction and while eco tourism is alive and well here, there’s a strong message of Kaitiakitanga - the Maori philosophy that promotes guardianship and urges people to tread softly on the Earth.
No-one treads more carefully than local guides Bill Rooke and Maryann Ewers. Their highly specialised company, Bush & Beyond, is Kahurangi National Park’s original guiding firm and the committed conservationists have been hiking this terrain for more than 15 years.
Both Maryann and Bill have extensive knowledge of flora, fauna and the history of this area and they live and breathe it, to the distinct advantage of hundreds of international tourists and locals who enjoy Kahurangi every year. Bush & Beyond offers a variety guided walks, one of the most popular being the Heaphy Track which is a five day, five night hike of about 80 kilometres. It is renowned as the ‘flora walk’ and designated one of New Zealand’s ‘Great Walks’.
While the average person will do a walk like the Heaphy Track once in a lifetime, Maryann and Bill complete it up to 16 times a year guiding with a focus on education. ''We endeavour to leave our clients with a greater understanding of the need to protect what we have left of our wilderness and to encourage people to support conservation projects,'' says Bill.
Their passion for the environment and frankness with visitors pays off with most taking the message on board and offering voluntary donations towards the various conservation projects underway in the area - including a wetland restoration programme, Friends of Flora, and Bush & Beyond’s own trapping and planting project.
Bill and Maryann say they are impressed with the knowledge many international tourists have of ecology and New Zealand history and say most have done their homework before they visit the park. ''We’re not afraid to be frank with them about the impact humans have had with deforestation and loss of habitat but in the time we spend with visitors here they see how things are being turned around and we end on a positive note,'' say Maryann and Bill.
On the last day of the Heaphy Tack hike, Bill and Maryann hold a 'bush tucker night' where the group collects treats like native spinach, watercress and mussels for a final celebratory dinner.
Over 40% of their business is from referrals or return business and while there is no shortage of interested clients, Bill and Maryann are quick to point out they face a double edged sword in operating Bush & Beyond. While they want clients, those people must visit Kahurangi for the right reasons and with the national park in line for the prestigious World Heritage nomination, publicity will undoubtedly bring an influx. But unless tourists come with the spirit of Kaitiakitanga Bill and Maryann make it clear they will not be welcome.
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