There’s no disguising the fact that the West Coast has plenty of rain – the clouds bump into the Southern Alps and let loose before they drift over to the drier Canterbury side. But rain doesn’t necessarily mean coldness. The West Coast actually has a delightfully mild climate – warm enough to grow coffee beans and nikau palms.

The elegant Nikau (Rhopalostylis sapida) is exclusive to New Zealand, and it’s our only true palm tree. It’s also the most southerly growing palm tree in the world.

Only in Okarito

	Lake Ianthe, West Coast, South Island.
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The lagoon is a birdwatcher’s paradise. It’s the main feeding ground for the white herons or Kotuku (Egretta alba). Over 70 other bird species have been recorded in the area.

Lakes and rivers

Every river that runs down from the alps to the West Coast is a natural work of art, and you can count on a choice of walking tracks. Taking a hike is the best way to enjoy the beauty of the rainforest. At this point I simply have to do a rave about Lake Mapourika, which is just south of Okarito. It’s a fantastic mirror lake because it’s very deep – the depth helps to keep the surface utterly still. Around the water’s edge is dense rainforest – the most unchanged community of plants you could hope to find. It’s never been touched - from moss layer to the tallest trees.

Glaciers and Haast Pass

Skiing down the Tasman Glacier, the country’s largest, is an exhilarating way to enjoy the excellent scenery.
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Further south again you can make the journey over Haast Pass. The river is a slightly opaque blue-green, from the lime and other minerals in the water. There are waterfalls to see on the drive up, and you’ll notice the trees getting smaller and smaller. At the summit of the pass the landscape changes suddenly to raw rock and scrub – the great divide dramatically cuts the rainfall to the eastern side. It’s an incredible transition.