Clare Jones' Routeburn Track Experience

Picking the world’s greatest walks and compiling them in one book is no easy feat. But the last twelve months have involved exactly that. "Unforgettable Walks to Take Before You Die" is the latest title from BBC books and the Routeburn Track is one of them. Every day of this walk is punctuated with classic viewpoints, scenes and landscapes and each seems to be perfectly positioned in time and distance. This is an enduring New Zealand classic.

As a three-day walk wandering between Fiordland National Park and Mount Aspiring National Park hikers are transplanted into the mountainous heartland of the Southern Alps, a pristine wild landscape on a truly grand scale. But what makes this walk worthy of "unforgettable" status is its accessibility. Thanks to a well laid out track, traversing rather than ascending, it is completely open to the average walker.

Day 1: The Divide to Lake Mackenzie Lodge

13km / 8.1miles- 4-6.5 hours walking

A highlight of the Routeburn Track, Earland Falls
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You then have the option to follow the turn off path to Key Summit, a lofty vantage point named by its first European visitors, David McKellar and George Gunn, who mapped this section of the route in 1861. This should not be missed. A series of easy switchbacks plopped me in front of one of the best mountain views going with the Ailsia and Darran mountain ranges towering above. Everywhere I looked there were lovely lofty mountains, a 360-degree panorama of peaks.

The next big sight is Earland Falls. The overhanging canopy suddenly parted and there it was- a thundering 80m cascade. Foamy water ricocheted off the surrounding boulders and spray filled the air. Like me, you may well grab for your waterproof, to quite literally soak up the atmosphere of this very special spot.
At the Orchard, 4km furtheron I was able to snatch a glimpse of the snow-capped Mount Christina before beginning the descent to my first overnight stop at the Mackenzie Lodge.

Day 2: Mackenzie Hut to Routeburn Falls Hut

15km / 9.2 miles- 5-7 hours walking

	The towering peaks of the Darran Mountain Range
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Our day’s walk began by gently skirting the nearby boulder fringed Lake Mackenzie, before winding through a magical moss laden forest. It then weaved in surprisingly easy-going zigzags to the resplendent Ocean Peak Corner, where you’ll have plenty of time to catch your breath taking in the views, which on a clear day stretch northwards to the Tasman Sea.

Revived, we followed the lofty traverse along the Hollyford Face. To the left the jagged buttresses of the Darran Range crested skywards and the racing clouds parted to reveal the summit of Mount Tutuko, 2723m, the highest peak in Fiordland.

The deep and dazzling blue waters of Lake Harris
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The path then began a steady descent, a bit tiring for the knees, but just being able to soak up the open airiness of this deserted valley was worth the effort- I medicated all soreness with chocolate.The day finished with the grande finale of Routeburn Falls, a series of jagged stepped waterfalls, which that night’s lodge was panoramically perched next to.

Day 3: Routeburn Falls Hut to Routeburn Road End

	The spectacular Routeburn Falls
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A rocky tree fringed bluff outside the Lodge provided a view of what was in store for the final day-the Lower Routeburn Valley was laid out before us. Beech forested slopes edged each side and the Routeburn river snaked in easy twists and turns along the valley floor. It’s worth keeping your eyes peeled for Kaka, or mountain parrots, as you descend. After reaching the valley floor at Routeburn Flats tumbling streams crossed by swaying swing bridges led to the roadhead.